Keep up with the latest lines on the catwalk and Italian designers setting the autumn / winter 2010 trends on the runways at Milan fashion week, 24 February - 3 March 2010.Have a brief review for the past fashion week below. | As the last outfit exited the Dolce & Gabbana catwalk in Milan 28 February, the cinema-sized screen of backstage images cut to a shot of the house seamstresses in their white coats, spectacles and tape measures strung around their necks, and the entire audience of 1,000 people burst into spontaneous applause. It was the defining moment of a weekend when Milan fashion week, having found itself on the ropes, launched a supremely elegant comeback. A spat with Anna Wintour over a cut in the number of days she |  |
| spends in the city has highlighted an underlying ebbing of influence from what was until recently the supremely powerful fashion capital. But that weekend, Milan has made it clear that the Italian designers are ready to up their game to turn the city's fortunes around.
Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci both dramatically broke with the lascivious excesses which have mired Milan fashion week in recent years and returned to the first principles of Italian style: perfect tailoring and a sophisticated, nuanced appreciation of sex and sensuality. To broadcast their back-to-basics message, Dolce & Gabbana harnessed modern technology, posting a behind-the-scenes video on YouTube before the show in which the designers whittled their look into three simple words: Sicily, Tailoring, Black. Backstage preparations and the show itself were live-streamed on to the brand's website and to iPhones. The Gucci collection, by creative director, Frida Giannini, posed a mystery worthy of Jessica Fletcher or Inspector Morse.Whatever happened to all the bags? Gucci started its life as a saddler, has a noble tradition in leather goods; even today, handbags and leather accessories account for more than 60 per cent of its fortune. |  | Yet, you would have been forgiven for thinking Gucci did not exactly have it in the bag, at its autumn/winter 2010/2011 ready-to-wear unveiling, at Milan Fashion Week. Save for the occasional clutch, and some squashy, ostrich totes, the catwalk was hardly overloaded with handbags. There was certainly leather, in the form of skin-tight trousers, leather shifts patched with fur on the bodice, and black, fine wool trousers with a waist-hip-band in black hide. The on dit was |
| that Giannini wants to be recognized more for her clothes. There were plenty of those; very wearable, commercial and much seemingly inspired by her own wardrobe.
Body-con dresses in parchment and cappuccino colors, featuring anatomical razor-cuts which exposed slashes of skin, and curved bands of metal embellishing necklines, the midriff, armholes and cuffs, were accessorized with matching over-the-knee suede boots. Oversized cashmere coats, half-belted at the back, lean coats with fur collars, and square, boxy jackets, came with taut trousers, flaring slightly at the ankle. Luxury furs included mix-tinted fox jackets, a sable jacket interwoven with suede, and a camel-hair coat with knitted mink lining. Evening wear was a study in black and tan; short dresses in a froth of Chantilly lace, cut in a python pattern, embellished with vinyl sequins and ostrich feathers, or dressed with ostrich feather shrugs. "Tuxedo" trousers were worn with mink and feather tank-tops, and shadow-dyed ostrich feather jackets. Gucci is a remarkable label, like that of Louis Vuitton, who's actually managed a profit through the recession. The Gucci girl of this season demands all eyes on her. She doesn't care much for tradition and shuns discretion.she reeks the "rich girl" look, certainly attire that is money well spent. All in all, Frieda Giannini's Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana show were fantastic and will in people's mind forever. |
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